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Complete DIY Guide
Update Your Kitchen for Less: A Guide to Replacing Cabinet Doors
Does your kitchen feel tired, dated, or just "not you" anymore? You don't need to tear out your entire kitchen — replacing cabinet doors is the smartest, most cost-effective refresh you can make.
Weekend DIY project
60–80% cheaper than full renovation
No specialist tools needed
No trades or mess
Your 3-stage weekend project
1
Plan
Before you order anything
Check your cabinetsIs the project right for me?
Gather tools & materialsYou likely have most already
Measure accuratelyDoors, drawers, panels, plinths
2
Remove
Strip back the old look
Take off old doorsBoth hinge types covered
Remove drawer frontsStandard & metal box systems
Strip trims & panelsPlinths, cornice, pelmet
3
Fit
The rewarding part
Install end panels firstThey frame everything else
Hang & align doorsStep-by-step with images
Fit trims, handles & finishThe details that make it shine
1
Is this project right for you?
A quick health check before you order anything — most kitchens are perfect candidates.
Cost comparison: replacing doors vs. full renovation
The primary reason most homeowners choose to replace doors rather than rip out the entire kitchen is cost. A full renovation involves significant labour — plastering, tiling, plumbing, electrical — plus new carcasses and weeks of disruption. By retaining your existing carcasses and simply swapping the doors, drawer fronts and side panels, you eliminate all of that.
The Savings
Replacing doors costs 60–80% less than a full kitchen tear-out when you factor in materials and labour.
The Time
A full renovation can take weeks. Replacing doors can often be completed in a weekend.
The Eco Benefit
A far more eco-friendly option — sending significantly less waste to landfill than a full rip-out.
Can you put new doors on your old cabinets?
The secret to a successful door swap lies in the condition of your existing cabinet carcasses. Perform this quick 3-point check:
- Water Damage — Check under the sink and near the dishwasher. If the wood is swollen, "blown," or soft to the touch, that unit may need replacing.
- Structural Integrity — Lean on the worktop. Does the cabinet feel sturdy? The sides need to hold new hinge screws.
- Standard Sizes — Most UK kitchens use standard sizing. Made-to-measure doors cost 20–40% more and take longer to arrive.
Good to know
If just one cabinet is damaged (e.g. the sink unit), you don't need to scrap the whole kitchen. Buy one new carcass to replace the damaged unit and re-door the rest.
Is your layout working for you?
Don't spend money making a dysfunctional kitchen look pretty. Because cabinet sizes are standardised, you can often reconfigure a section without starting from scratch.
Need more drawers?
Swap a standard cupboard carcass for a drawer pack. Same space, far more usable storage.
Browse drawer packs →
Need more storage?
Replace a wall and base unit with a single tall larder for a dramatic increase in capacity.
Browse cabinet units →
Ditch the freestanding bin?
Fit an integrated pull-out bin inside a base unit and clear the floor entirely — cleaner look, same capacity.
Browse integrated bins →
Extend the kitchen
Add brand-new cabinets to an empty wall to match your new doors and increase your kitchen footprint.
Browse cabinet units →While you're at it — consider upgrading other parts too
Since you'll be removing the old doors anyway, this is the perfect moment to modernise the functionality of your kitchen. Small hardware changes can make a budget DIY job feel like a high-end showroom kitchen.
Upgrade Cabinet Handles
The "jewellery" of the kitchen. Sleek metal bars or matte black knobs instantly modernise any style of door.
Browse handles →
Upgrade to Soft-Close Hinges
Prevents slamming and adds a tactile feeling of luxury every time you close a cupboard.
Browse hinges →
Add Clever Storage
Magic corners, pull-out larders and wirework systems transform chaotic cupboards into organised spaces.
Browse storage →
Upgrade Your Tap
A filtered or 4-in-1 boiling water tap clears your worktop of kettles and jugs for a streamlined finish.
Browse taps →2
Tools & Materials
If you have a basic household toolbox, you likely have 90% of what's needed already.
Essential Tools
You'll need all of these
Tape MeasureA standard 5m or 8m tape. Accuracy is everything.
Cordless Drill/DriverEssential for driving screws and boring new holes if needed.
Screwdriver Set (PZ2)Vital for fine-tuning hinge adjustments by hand.
Spirit LevelTo ensure your doors hang straight and true.
Pencil & Masking TapeTape on dark cabinets makes pencil marks visible.
Awl or BradawlMakes a starting indent so your drill bit doesn't slip.
Materials to Order
Check your delivery against this list
New Cabinet Doors & Drawer FrontsDouble-check measurements before ordering and before unwrapping.
Hinges & Mounting PlatesEnsure soft-close plates fit your existing carcass pre-drilled holes.
Handles or KnobsPlus the correct length snap-off screws (usually included).
Wood Filler / Wax StickTo patch old handle holes if your new ones sit in different positions.
Optional "Pro" Tools
Only needed if doors aren't pre-drilled
Hinge Jig (35mm)Guarantees the hole is the perfect distance from the edge every time.
Cabinet Hardware JigEnsures every handle is perfectly aligned without endless measuring.
Quick-Grip ClampHolds drawer fronts in place while screwing from the inside.
Upgrade Extras
If also upgrading functionality
For Boiling Water TapsEnsure space and a power socket below the sink for the boiler tank.
For Pull-out Larders / Magic CornersThese come with all their own fitting instructions, fixtures and templates.
KitchenFair tip
Our cabinets come with pre-drilled hinge positions and you can request hinge holes drilled in your replacement doors when ordering — just specify the measurements. No hinge jig required.
3
How to Measure for New Doors
If you only pay close attention to one section of this guide, make it this one.
The Golden Rule
Always measure the door itself, not the cabinet unit. Always measure the back of the door — some doors have shaped front-facing edges. Cabinet units are standard sizes (e.g. 600mm wide), but the door is always slightly smaller (e.g. 596mm) to allow clearance between doors.
Preparation
- Use Millimetres (mm): The kitchen industry works exclusively in mm. Never use centimetres or inches.
- Grab a Helper: For tall larder doors or fridge freezers, having someone hold the tape ensures an accurate reading.
- Sketch a Plan: Draw a rough diagram of your kitchen layout on paper and number every door.
- Create a Master List: Before measuring, prepare a simple table — door number, height, width, hinge positions, hinge side. Fill it in door by door so nothing gets missed.
How to measure door height & width
- Measure the Height: Run your tape from the very top edge to the very bottom edge.
- Measure the Width: Run your tape from the left edge to the right edge.
- Format: Industry standard is Height × Width. Be consistent — ordering a door with the grain running the wrong way is a frustrating and avoidable mistake.
- Sanity check: A standard base unit door is often 715mm high. If you measure 720mm, you may be measuring the cabinet by mistake.
Measuring hinge hole positions
Hinge holes are the large 35mm wide cups found in cabinet doors. If you want your new doors pre-drilled and ready to clip on, measure these carefully.
- Step 1: Mark the middle of the hinge hole.
- Step 2: Measure from the top or bottom edge to this mark.
- Top Hinge: Measure from the Top Edge down to the centre of the top hinge hole.
- Bottom Hinge: Measure from the Bottom Edge up to the centre of the bottom hinge hole.
- Handing: Note which side the hinges are on (Left or Right) looking at the door from the front.
Useful tips
Hinges have 2–3mm built-in adjustment — don't worry about getting this to the exact millimetre. Hinge holes are typically 70–120mm from the edge. For J Pull Doors, specify whether the handle is at the top, bottom or side when ordering.
What if I don't have the old doors?
If you have a missing door or are adding a new cabinet, calculate the door size from the carcass measurements:
Door Height
Cabinet Height − 5mm
e.g. 720mm cabinet → 715mm door
Door Width
Cabinet Width − 4mm
e.g. 600mm cabinet → 596mm door
KitchenFair cabinets
Our cabinets have pre-drilled hinge positions at 100mm top and bottom. As doors are slightly shorter than the carcass, the hinge hole positions for our cabinets are 98mm from top and bottom.
Drawer fronts
Measure these exactly the same way (Height × Width) from the back. For shaker ranges, many have a slab drawerfront for short-height drawers such as 140mm high — there simply isn't the height to fit a shaker frame. Check which style is available for the range you're considering.
End panels
End panels (or "clad-on panels") are the decorative sides visible at the end of a run of cabinets. They come in standard oversized sheets that you cut down to fit.
- Measure the Height and Width of the existing panel, or the exposed side of the cabinet box if there's no existing panel.
- Don't worry about cut edges — they face the back wall or are hidden under a worktop or cornice.
Pro tip
If your panel touches the floor, measure from the floor to the top of the cabinet. If it sits on top of the plinth, measure from the top of the plinth upwards.
Plinths (kickboards)
- Measure the Run: Total length of your kitchen run where the plinth is required.
- Check the Height: Standard is 150mm, but always measure yours. If your floor is uneven, your plinth might be scribed — measure the widest point to be safe.
- Ordering: Plinths are sold in long lengths (commonly 2.4m or 3m). A 4m run needs two 2.4m lengths.
Cornice & pelmets
- Cornice: Sits on top of the wall units, available in several styles from traditional to minimalist.
- Pelmet (Light Rail): Sits underneath the wall units to hide under-cupboard lighting.
- Measure total linear length of wall cabinets needing trim.
- Add 10% for waste: Corners need 45-degree mitre cuts — always order a little more than you need.
The master list & three-check process
Before you click "Add to Cart," consolidate your scribbles into your master list and follow this three-check process:
1
The Reality Check
Walk back into the kitchen. Physically touch every cabinet as you read the corresponding measurement. Does it match?
2
The Order Check
When inputting sizes on the website, check each one against your master list. Have someone read it aloud while you check the screen.
3
The Delivery Check
When your pallet arrives, unwrap and measure immediately — catching mistakes early keeps your project on track.
Got your measurements? Start shopping.
Browse our full range of cabinet doors, drawer fronts and accessories.
4
How to Remove Your Old Kitchen Doors
Generally fast and satisfying work — but there's a right way to avoid damaging your carcasses.
Don't panic
This is the moment your kitchen starts to look worse before it looks better. That is completely normal — it's part of the process.
Preparation
- Label the Cabinets: Place masking tape inside each cabinet and write the number that corresponds to your master list. When the doors are gone, it's very easy to lose track of which unit is which.
- Clear the Front: Move heavy pots and pans away from the front edge so you have room to work.
- Protect the Worktop: Place a towel or cardboard on the worktop underneath wall units. If a door slips, you want it to land on a towel, not crack your granite or laminate.
Identify your hinge type
Most modern kitchens use "concealed" cup hinges. Look at the hinge arm — the metal part connecting the door to the cabinet.
- Method A — Quick Release (Modern Hinges): Look for a small button at the very back of the hinge arm. Support the door, press the button and the hinge pops off. Always release the bottom hinge first, then the top.
- Method B — Screw-Fix (Older Hinges): If there's no button, locate the centre screw on the mounting plate and loosen it while supporting the door. The hinge arm slides off once loosened.
Removing the mounting plates (if upgrading)
- If you're keeping old hinges: Leave the mounting plates in place.
- If you're upgrading to soft-close: Unscrew the two screws holding the plate to the cabinet wall and remove.
Keep these screws
Old screws sometimes have a better "bite" in the existing holes. Keep them in the labelled bag for that cabinet.
Removing drawer fronts
- Style 1 — Screw-Fix (Standard): Open the drawer and look at the inside of the front panel. If you see screw heads, simply unscrew them and the front will fall off. Be ready for it to drop as you unscrew — sometimes handle screws also hold the front on.
- Style 2 — Metal Box System (Blum/Hettich): Pop off the plastic cap on the side of the metal drawer wall. Underneath you'll find a locking screw. Turn this screw and the front will pop loose — lift it upwards to remove.
Removing panels, plinths and trims
- Removing Plinths: Most plinths clip onto the plastic cabinet legs. Pull firmly towards you — the C-clips should snap free. If it won't budge, check corners for a screw into the side panel.
- Removing Cornice: Stand on a secure ladder and look down at the top of the wall units for screws or L-brackets. Unscrew and the cornice lifts off.
- Removing Pelmet: Look at the underside of the wall cabinet for screws going through the bottom into the pelmet trim.
- Removing End Panels: Look inside the adjacent cabinet for screws through the cabinet wall — often hidden under plastic caps. Once unscrewed, give the panel a gentle pry to break any silicone seal.
Bag and tag your hardware
Put each cabinet's fittings in a labelled sandwich bag and tape it inside that cabinet. Hinges settle over time — keeping them in their original home makes realignment much easier.
5
Step-by-Step Installation
The rewarding part. Patience here is the difference between a professional and a DIY finish.
1
Fitting new end panels
Always install end panels before doors — they frame everything else
- Scribing to the wall: If there are gaps against the wall, use a compass to trace the wall's profile onto the panel. Cut along this line with a jigsaw for a seamless fit.
- Cutting to size: If the panel sits on the floor, cut the bottom; if it sits on top of a plinth, cut accordingly.
- Fixing: Clamp the panel tight. Screw from inside the cabinet outwards into the panel.
Screw length matters
Usually 30mm screws are safe for 18mm carcass + 18mm panel. A screw poking through your brand new panel is a bad start to the project.
2
Preparing the doors — attaching hinges
Attach hinges to the door before hanging
- Insert the hinge cup: Press the round part of the hinge into the 35mm hole on the door.
- Square it up: This is vital. Use a square or straight edge to ensure the hinge arm is perfectly perpendicular (90°) to the door edge. A crooked hinge means the door will bind.
- Fix: Screw the hinge into the door using the provided screws (usually 16mm).
3
Hanging the doors
Clip on — don't worry if they look wonky yet, you'll align them at the end
- Lift and clip: Hook the top hinge onto the mounting plate first, then the bottom. Press the back of the hinge until it "clicks."
- Screw-fix hinges: Slide the arm over the mounting plate and tighten the securing screw.
- Initial alignment: Don't worry if the doors look crooked — you'll adjust them all together in the final alignment step.
4
Fitting drawer fronts
The double-sided tape trick makes this far easier than it looks
- Metal drawer boxes (Blum/Hettich): These use specific fixing clips. Measure and mark exactly where the clips sit using the manufacturer's template.
- The double-sided tape trick: Place strong double-sided tape on the front of the drawer box. Use 2p coins as 2mm gap guides. Position the drawer front by eye and press firmly. Gently pull the drawer open, then drive two screws from inside through the existing holes into the back of the new front.
5
Fitting cornice and pelmet
Mitre saw required — take your time on the corner angles
- Cutting: You'll need a mitre saw to cut 45-degree angles for corners. Measure the length of the cabinet run — not the wall.
- Cornice (top): Screw L-brackets to the top of the cabinet, then screw the cornice into the bracket from behind/above so no screws are visible.
- Pelmet (bottom): Screw through the bottom of the cabinet floor downwards into the pelmet. Use clamps to hold it while you drill.
6
Fitting the plinths
Seal the bottom edge first — easy to skip and easy to regret later
- Seal the bottom edge first — see sealing methods below.
- Clip onto the legs: Clip the plastic plinth clips onto the cabinet legs and slide to align with the back of the plinth board.
- Mark and fix: Mark where the clips sit on the back of the plinth board and screw the bracket on.
- Snap on: Push the plinth onto the clips. For corners, use a plinth connector or mitre the wood.
Protecting your plinths — sealing methods
Method 1 — Transparent sealing strips (recommended)
U-shaped clear plastic channels that push-fit onto the bottom edge. Almost invisible, waterproof, and allows the plinth to be removed later without breaking a silicone seal.
Method 2 — Silicone sealing
A thin bead of clear silicone along the joint where the plinth meets the floor. Also apply a thin layer to the raw bottom edge and let it dry before installation. Note: makes removing the plinth later much messier.
Method 3 — PVA or specialist end-grain sealer
Apply a 50/50 mix of PVA glue and water to the raw bottom edge. This sizes the wood, hardening to create a water-resistant skin. Once dry, combine with a plastic sealing strip for belt-and-braces protection.
7
Integrated dishwasher doors
Handle one at a time — never remove all appliance panels at once
Safety Warning — Spring Tension
Dishwasher doors have powerful springs designed to hold a heavy timber panel. Once the panel is removed, the door may snap shut with significant force. Keep fingers clear of the hinge area at all times. Have a helper hold the door down, or place a heavy weight on the inner rack.
- Removal: Loosen the internal fixing screws on the stainless steel side-trim. Slide the panel up or down to unhook it.
- Hardware transfer: Move the mounting "mushrooms" and brackets to the new panel using the manufacturer's template.
- Installation: Hook the new panel onto the door. Tighten the internal screws once aligned with the neighbouring drawers.
8
Integrated fridge & freezer doors
A perfect fit ensures the appliance stays airtight
There are two main fixing types: Sliding Rail (the wooden panel has its own hinges with a plastic slide connecting it to the fridge door) and Door-on-Door (the wooden panel is fixed directly onto the appliance door and they move as one).
- Removal: Pop off plastic hinge covers. Unscrew the brackets or sliding rails connecting the wooden panel to the appliance.
- Installation: Align the new panel. Use the adjustment screws at the top of the bracket to get the panel perfectly level.
- The seal test: Close the door. If you see gaps in the rubber gasket, adjust the hinges until the rubber seal makes full contact all the way around.
✓
The final step: aligning your doors
This is what separates a professional finish from a DIY one
You've clipped your new doors on but they probably look a little "wonky." Don't panic — this is completely normal. Concealed hinges have three-way adjustability to compensate for uneven walls and floors.
Side to Side
"Doors are hitting each other or the gap is too wide"
Use the screw closest to the door. Clockwise moves the door toward the hinge side; counter-clockwise pushes it away. Adjust both hinges equally to move the whole door, or just one to tilt it.
Height (Up & Down)
"The door doesn't line up with the adjacent door"
Loosen the two screws on the mounting plate — the oval holes let it slide up or down. Nudge the door to the correct height and re-tighten.
Depth (In & Out)
"The door bounces back or won't close flush"
Loosen the screw furthest at the back of the hinge arm. Push the door in until it's roughly 1–2mm from the carcass edge, then tighten. If it binds when opening, pull it out a fraction.
Troubleshooting common alignment issues
"My door is twisted — one corner sticks out"
Fix: Adjust the depth screw on just the top hinge (push it in) or pull the bottom hinge out. This tilts the door on the vertical plane to flatten it against the cabinet.
"The doors bang together when I close them"
Fix: Use the side-to-side screw on both doors to move them away from the centre. Aim for a consistent 2–3mm gap between all doors and drawer fronts.
"The soft-close isn't working"
Fix: Check the speed adjustment on the hinge cup — many premium hinges have a small switch or dial that turns the damping on/off or sets it to light/heavy.
"The screws won't hold — they just spin"
Fix: The hole is worn out. Remove the plate, push a matchstick dipped in wood glue into the hole, let it dry and snap it off flush. This gives the screw fresh wood to bite into.
Need hinges, handles or hardware?
Browse our full range of kitchen door hardware.
6
Finishing Touches
The small details that elevate your kitchen from "finished" to "flawless."
Installing handles and knobs
Drilling into a brand-new door is the most nerve-wracking part of the entire project. There is no "undo" button — measure three times, drill once.
- Make a template: Use a plastic drilling jig or make your own from cardboard. Hold it against every door corner — never measure each door individually.
- Tape first: Stick masking tape where you plan to drill. This stops the bit from skating across the glossy surface. Mark your cross on the tape.
- Prevent blowout: Hold a scrap piece of wood tightly against the back of the door while you drill through from the front. The bit exits into the scrap wood, keeping the back of the door hole clean.
- Drill size: Use a bit 0.5mm larger than your handle screws (usually 4.5mm or 5mm) for a tiny bit of adjustment wiggle room.
Adding door bumpers
Even with soft-close hinges, fit clear silicone bumpers on every door. They protect the finish on the back of the door from chipping against the cabinet face and silence the final "clack" of contact. Place one on the top corner and one on the bottom corner on the handle side. Add a third in the middle for large larder doors.
Sealing the gaps
Where your new end panels meet the wall you'll likely see small shadow gaps — walls are rarely flat. Run a thin bead of decorators caulk (colour-matched to your wall or cabinet) down the joint. Smooth with a wet finger to make the cabinet look built-in rather than applied. This one detail makes a huge difference to the professional appearance of the finished kitchen.
Adhesive screw covers
Open your cupboards and you'll see exposed screw heads from joining cabinets or fixing end panels. Buy adhesive screw cover caps that match your cabinet interior. Stick them over the visible heads. It takes 5 minutes and makes the inside of your cupboards look brand new.
The "peel" — for gloss or super-matte doors
The curing rule
Only peel the protective film after handles are on, caulk is dry, and tools are packed away. Once peeled, many high-gloss finishes need 24 hours to cure. Do not wipe or polish the doors for at least 24 hours after peeling.
7
Care & Maintenance
A few simple habits will keep your new kitchen looking new for a decade.
The 3-Week Settle
Don't be surprised if doors look slightly wonky a few weeks after installation. Loading cupboards with heavy plates causes cabinets to settle and screws to "bed in." Simply give the hinge adjustment screws a minor tweak — completely normal.
Cleaning your doors
Less is more. Always use a clean, soft microfibre cloth. Warm soapy water or a non-abrasive kitchen cleaner is enough. Never use bleach, solvent-based cleaners, vinegar, or magic eraser sponges. For gloss doors, always use a damp microfibre cloth and buff dry with a second soft cloth.
Heat & Steam
Don't boil a kettle or run a toaster directly underneath a wall cabinet — pull appliances forward so steam escapes into the room. After the dishwasher finishes, wait 15–20 minutes before opening the door.
Spills & Splashes
Wipe water immediately from the front of sink cabinets and from the floor near plinths. When mopping, ensure the mop is damp — not soaking wet.
Scratches & Nicks
Most suppliers sell touch-up paint pots or wax filler sticks matched to your specific door colour. Keep one in a kitchen drawer — small accidents are much easier to fix immediately than weeks later.
You've done it.
The tools are packed away and your kitchen looks brand new. You've saved thousands compared to a full renovation, kept a perfectly good kitchen carcass out of landfill, and transformed the heart of your home.
Now put the kettle on — away from the wall units!
8
Frequently Asked Questions
Can't find your answer? Contact us and we'll reply within 1 working day.
Yes, provided the cabinet boxes are structurally sound. Check that the cabinet frame is not soft, water-damaged or warped. If the bones of the kitchen are good, replacing just the doors is a cost-effective way to completely change the look of the room without a full rip-out.
It is highly recommended. While you can reuse old hinges, they are often worn or may not fit the standard 35mm hinge cup holes in modern doors. Upgrading to new soft-close hinges ensures your new doors hang perfectly and close quietly. Since you're doing the work of hanging them anyway, the small extra cost is absolutely worth it.
This is very common and easy to fix. Simply drill new pilot holes for the new mounting plates. If the old holes are visible, fill them with wood filler that matches your cabinet frame colour before installing the new hardware.
Yes, for a cohesive look. Most suppliers sell drawer fronts that match the exact profile and finish of the cabinet doors. Replacing drawer fronts is usually easier than doors — most can be attached by screwing through the drawer box from the inside into the back of the new front.
Yes, mostly — but it is dangerous to assume. Always measure every single door individually to the millimetre. IKEA uses their own sizing which is very different to all other UK kitchen cabinet providers.
Yes, if you order "paintable" or "primed" doors. Many of our doors are available as sanded, primed or with paintable vinyl specifically for DIY painting. Always check the finish type before ordering if you intend to customise the colour.